Wine and Beer

Our classroom lectures have started, and we are starting to learn about some really fascinating stuff. Remnants of apartheid are literally staring you in the face, as double street signs serve as constant reminders (the apartheid signs depicting Afrikans names have big red x’s through them but still remain next to new, zulu signs). The history is laced with violence, oppression and tragedy and is pretty hard to hear. To be honest, I have developed an inclination to rock out to Party in the USA or something equally as uplifting when class ends to lighten my mood.
So alcohol… played/ plays a big role in this province and in South Africa. The suburb where we are doing our home stay was the 2nd town to undergo forced relocation during apartheid. Part of the reason this town was targeted was because of its underground liquor market. To enrich my cultural experience I believe it is my responsibility; nay, my duty, to sample some of the controversial and contraband resettlement instigator. How could I expect to fully develop my understanding without totally immersing myself? This dedication only serves to mirror the work ethic and philosophy of an anthropologist.

In addition to learning about Zulu moonshine, we learned about socially normative Zulu beer culture (we also saw lots of nice beaded dresses and learned about traditional clothing and other artifacts). They have these things that are called beer pots and they are literally that: big clay pots that you fill with beer. Luckily everyone’s pot looks different so you never have to worry about misplacing them and not knowing which one was yours. The thing is, the beer pots get filled with beer and multiple people will be drinking from the same one. Sounds like a good way to share germs huh? Kegs and solo cups were conspicuously absent.

We went out for our welcome dinner in the evening, and sampled (read: consumed) many of our great nations wines. Since we have been staying at a monastery, the M.O. around here is not to drink. We all enjoyed our first chance to… shall we say, toast the night away. Anyway conclusive evidence suggests that South African wine is excellent.

Besides alcohol, we have also been studying the period of race classification to better understand the area we are in. We saw a movie, in theaters now, called Skin which was incredibly moving (and true) about some of the social and political issues surrounding this. If you’re looking for a good cry, I highly recommend it (although if you’re looking for an Oscar nomination for best actress, I do not.). A lot of time has been spent discussing the sweeping disparities between the rich and the poor in Durban, and observing demonstrations of tremendous excess (the imax theater in the mall we went to) vs. abject poverty (central Durban and its surrounding neighborhoods). Much has been done in the 20 years (on Tuesday) since F.W. De Kerk announced that parliament would recognize other political parties, Mandela would be freed on the 11th, exiles could return, etc. but there is much left to do. My physical presence in Durban not only removes the distractions of top 40 music, 30 rock and the Office, but it allows me to really connect with the realities of these studies.

Moving into the home stay tomorrow [Thursday] (again I am typing this the night before I will post it), wish me luck!
Love from Durban,
Judy